Finally, there's a rear disc-brake conversion that won't leave you broke and sad. The guys over at The Little Shop of Horrors have learned a thing or tow about S-10's in the last seven years of fooling with them. After outfitting some projects with custom disc brakes, they decided to put together an affordable kit to allow people to swap their own stock drum brakes to disc. Installation is simple, requires, no welding, and it's not necessary to pull out the axles. Serviceable parts are also available individually. Kits fit either '81-'91 or '92-'04 S-10 rears, but you'll have to verify your axle to make sure you get the right one.
These kits can be ordered with or without e-brake calipers starting from $349 from The Little Shop's website and at www.lowriderdepot.com
1-2. First, we removed the...
1-2. First, we removed the ugly stock brake drum. If it has never been off before, it may require a little persuasion with some penetrating oil on the center bore and a hammer or air-chisel at the outside lip to push it off the axle. Sometimes it helps to use a few curse words too. S*&%!
1-2. First, we removed the...
1-2. First, we removed the ugly stock brake drum. If it has never been off before, it may require a little persuasion with some penetrating oil on the center bore and a hammer or air-chisel at the outside lip to push it off the axle. Sometimes it helps to use a few curse words too. S*&%!
3-4. The stock brake internals...
3-4. The stock brake internals were then removed. Since these weren’t going to be retained, it’s easiest to cut the springs with a cut-off wheel.
3-4. The stock brake internals...
3-4. The stock brake internals were then removed. Since these weren’t going to be retained, it’s easiest to cut the springs with a cut-off wheel.
5-6. The emergency-brake cable...
5-6. The emergency-brake cable was separated from the drum backing plate by squeezing the retainer clip, then the four bolts were unbolted from the axle flange. (’82-’91 flanges will appear differently.)
5-6. The emergency-brake cable...
5-6. The emergency-brake cable was separated from the drum backing plate by squeezing the retainer clip, then the four bolts were unbolted from the axle flange. (’82-’91 flanges will appear differently.)
7. Since the drum backing...
7. Since the drum backing plates weren’t going to be used, and pulling out the axleshaft would have been a pain, it was easier to just cut the backing plate into two halves with a cut-off wheel (as shown), plasma cutter, or the good ol’ cutting torch, aka “fire hatchet.”
8. The brakeline was disconnected,...
8. The brakeline was disconnected, and with all that mess out of the way, we were finally ready to put the kit on.
9. The brake hose bracket...
9. The brake hose bracket was assembled to the inside of the caliper bracket, which was then connected to the inside of the axle flange. (Figure 10 shows the ’82-’91 version.)
10. The ’82-’91 kit (passenger...
10. The ’82-’91 kit (passenger side) is now assembled. Make sure the 9/16 bolt on the top goes from the outside in toward the center of the truck. Otherwise, the bolt will come in contact with the rotor once assembled.
11-12. The rotor was slid...
11-12. The rotor was slid over the studs and held in place with a lugnut. Next, the caliper and pads were assembled using the supplied 7/16 brake pins. If your application is a non–e-brake kit, make sure that the supplied pad spacers are installed in the calipers.
11-12. The rotor was slid...
11-12. The rotor was slid over the studs and held in place with a lugnut. Next, the caliper and pads were assembled using the supplied 7/16 brake pins. If your application is a non–e-brake kit, make sure that the supplied pad spacers are installed in the calipers.
13. The brake leader hose...
13. The brake leader hose was hooked up to the banjo bolt, and washers were thrown onto each side of the eyelet.
14. The other end of the hose...
14. The other end of the hose was pushed through the hose bracket and secured with the supplied retainer clip.
15. When retightening the...
15. When retightening the brakeline, we made sure to use a wrench on both the brakeline and hose. Failure to do so could strip out the hose bracket. If your kit is a non–e-brake system, then repeat these steps on the other side of the axle, and you’re done here. If you opted to go with an e-brake kit, then keep reading.
16-17. After repeating drum...
16-17. After repeating drum removal and caliper installation on both sides, the cable splice on the driver-side framerail under the cab was removed to gain slack in the e-brake system. The driver-side cable was then inserted into the caliper until it snapped in.
16-17. After repeating drum...
16-17. After repeating drum removal and caliper installation on both sides, the cable splice on the driver-side framerail under the cab was removed to gain slack in the e-brake system. The driver-side cable was then inserted into the caliper until it snapped in.
18-19. The passenger-side...
18-19. The passenger-side cable will have some extra slack from the caliper to the stock cable stop. The cable was cut just past the cable stop, leaving as much cable as possible.
18-19. The passenger-side...
18-19. The passenger-side cable will have some extra slack from the caliper to the stock cable stop. The cable was cut just past the cable stop, leaving as much cable as possible.
20. The plastic coating on...
20. The plastic coating on the cable was removed so that the supplied new cable stop will have contact from its set screws directly into the metal cable. It’s best to leave the extra slack past the cable stop intact until you reconnect the splice and adjust the system. After that, it can be shortened as shown.
21. The brake system was then...
21. The brake system was then bled, and the e-brake cables were adjusted using the cable adjusters located on the driver side at the rear cab mount. You want enough cable pressure so that there is a firm e-brake pedal, but not so much that the system has any pressure when the pedal is released. This can be checked by spinning the rear wheels by hand with the pedal released. Congratulations, you’re now drum-free! It’s party time!