For the final installment of the Weekend Warrior Toyota body-drop, we wanted to focus on dealing with the pesky clutch problem. Rather than just do the normal magazine-style overview, we knew it would be more beneficial to show you the in-depth process of relocating the clutch master cylinder to clear the bigger wheels. And, on top of all that, we've thrown in some tips as a body-drop survival guide, which will help you get through the arduous process and see the light at the end of the tunnel. Now, go body-drop your truck. (Yes, Steve, this one's for you!)
1. With the firewall tubbed for the body-drop, the stock pedal assembly will hit the upper left corner. So, we'll cut out what was in the way, as we'll be building a new brace anyways. | 
2. We removed the sensor, because we'll still be using that. Then, we marked and cut out the section that hits the tub. |
3. With that section removed, you can see that the stock pedal assembly will bolt right back in. | 
4. Now, we measured where we could place the clutch cylinder. |
5. We cut off the reservoir, because we'll be feeding the cylinder through our brake booster. | 
6. Next, we tapped the end to make more thread for our end link. |
7. After measuring out the front of the pedal assembly, we cut and built a faceplate to mount the clutch cylinder onto. | 
8. The faceplate was welded to the pedal assembly, then the link system was measured. Here, we needed 3.5 inches from the pedal to the cylinder. |