-Lays full frame all the way around
-Suspension, four-link, everything else is done and ready to go. If not, finish all the suspension work before messing with the body-drop.
-Wheel size (Total O.D. with tire) =
A/C: Yes or No
-Total Body-drop (in inches) =
-To make things easier, disassemble-pull the dash, drop the motor, and so on-do everything possible before setting the truck up for the body-drop.
-When getting started, set the truck up on level surface, not the floor!
-Measure, measure, measure! Measure out the body-drop before you start cutting.
-Many things will have to be relocated and it's different for every truck. When relocating and rewiring, it's best to save the stock grommets by cutting them out on the firewall so they can be relocated and rewelded.
-With the wires cut out and ready to relocate, the firewall can be tubbed for wheel clearance.
-Before cutting the cab, lay 2x4s across the level surface so the cab has something to rest on when dropping it.
-With the cab dropped, you can now plate the floor. Depending on the truck, you might need to build a bigger tranny tunnel. When plating the floor, it's best to channel it or angle the plate so it's not such a steep stepup. Make sure everything is welded up water-tight, so water can't get into the cab at any angle.
-With the cab set, you can move to the front and drop the front frame horns. Generally, this is the same amount as the body-drop.
-If you've already dropped the motor and relocated everything under the hood, then you can move on to the bed. If not, relocate, rewire, and set up the motor.
-The bed is the last piece of the puzzle, and the easiest. Depending on your air setup, you can over body-drop the bed to make some room.
-Time to wrap up all of the loose ends, wire everything, and get the truck back together!
-Last, but not least, take it for a cruise and see how much closer you come to being able to touch the ground out the driver's window!