For the final installment of the Weekend Warrior Toyota body-drop, we wanted to focus on dealing with the pesky clutch problem. Rather than just do the normal magazine-style overview, we knew it would be more beneficial to show you the in-depth process of relocating the clutch master cylinder to clear the bigger wheels. And, on top of all that, we've thrown in some tips as a body-drop survival guide, which will help you get through the arduous process and see the light at the end of the tunnel. Now, go body-drop your truck. (Yes, Steve, this one's for you!)
1. With the firewall tubbed...
1. With the firewall tubbed for the body-drop, the stock pedal assembly will hit the upper left corner. So, we'll cut out what was in the way, as we'll be building a new brace anyways.
2. We removed the sensor,...
2. We removed the sensor, because we'll still be using that. Then, we marked and cut out the section that hits the tub.
3. With that section removed,...
3. With that section removed, you can see that the stock pedal assembly will bolt right back in.
4. Now, we measured where...
4. Now, we measured where we could place the clutch cylinder.
5. We cut off the reservoir,...
5. We cut off the reservoir, because we'll be feeding the cylinder through our brake booster.
6. Next, we tapped the end...
6. Next, we tapped the end to make more thread for our end link.
7. After measuring out the...
7. After measuring out the front of the pedal assembly, we cut and built a faceplate to mount the clutch cylinder onto.
8. The faceplate was welded...
8. The faceplate was welded to the pedal assembly, then the link system was measured. Here, we needed 3.5 inches from the pedal to the cylinder.