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1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max - Weekend Warrior: STK TRUK Edition Part 3: Four-Link
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 13. Using our speed square,...  13. Using our speed square, which we bought at a local tool supply warehouse, we got the first angle for our 2x3 crossmember. This made it easy to mark our steel for good straight cuts on the chop saw.  14.  15. By using our concrete...  15. By using our concrete pattern, Steve tacked it together-before placing it on the table and clamping it down-to keep it straight while welding.  16. We measured in 4 1/4-inches...  16. We measured in 4 1/4-inches from the outside of our crossmember, which gave us enough air-bag clearance from the framerails. Then, we marked out the width of our bushings to find our tab placement.  17. We bolted our tabs together...  17. We bolted our tabs together by using our inner-bushing sleeve and a thin washer on one side. This would ensure they wouldn't pull while welding them.  18. Using our previous measurement...  18. Using our previous measurement of tabs A and C, which was 7-3/4-inches, we placed our upper tabs on our crossmember.  19. In order to keep our crossmember...  19. In order to keep our crossmember square, Steve made measurements from the front of our crossmember to several points on the truck. He then tacked the crossmember into place while keeping good cab clearance. Also, he ensured that our crossmember was even with the top of our frame.  20. To place our lower four-link...  20. To place our lower four-link tabs on our rear-end, we measured center to center of our lower tabs on our crossmember (measurement X), then measured between the inside of our backing plates on our rearend (measurement Y). We then subtracted the distance X from Y, which gave us measurement Z (Y-X=Z). We then divide Z by 2, which was our distance from our backing plate to the center of our lower four-link tabs on our rearend. (Z /2=lower four-link tabs) for example:
50-1/4 inches - 28-1/4 inches = 22 inches
22 inches / 2 = 11 inches
11 inches equals, backing plate to the center of our tab.  21. Setting our pinion angle...  21. Setting our pinion angle 1 to 3 degrees down from the back of our transmission, we put our rear tabs into place. Remember: it's upside down, unlike we did the first time, ha ha. Also, notice the awesome ghost in the background.  22. We put our rear-end back...  22. We put our rear-end back into place and centered it.  23. Once again, we set our...  23. Once again, we set our pinion angle. Then, we measured between our two bottom tabs, (tabs C and D) to find out lower bar length, which ours was 30-3/4 inches.  24. Not everybody has a cool...  24. Not everybody has a cool work bench like us. It's a doored '57 Chevy truck, thanks to Eron.  25. We cut our bottom's bars...  25. We cut our bottom's bars at 32-3/4 inches and used 2x2x.188 wall square tubing.  26. We measured 1 inch and...  26. We measured 1 inch and marked our center.  27. Now, we used a 1-3/4-inch...  27. Now, we used a 1-3/4-inch hole saw to drill our ends to accommodate our sleeves.
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