10a. The backing plate reinstalls...
10a. The backing plate reinstalls just like stock, but for the lift spindle side of it, you have to route the ABS wire on the other side of the tie-rod ear. Before you put the rotor on, make sure to clean the spindle spud; we wouldn't want any dirt to contaminate the wheel bearing.(10a & 10b)
10b.
11a. The shocks are shipped...
11a. The shocks are shipped without their respective inserts installed, so a trip to the vise and some persuasion with a few hammers got them right in. We recommend chucking the insert in the vise and hitting the shock with a soft hammer, then flipping it over and pounding it the rest of the way in. There are a few ways to do this, but we found this to be the quickest.(11a & 11b)
11b.
Teardown of the Stock Stuff
Here is how the stock stuff is removed and what tools to use. We moved this sidebar to the back, so you don't have to weed through it before you get to the meat and potatoes of the story.
1. An impact and a 13/16 is...
1. An impact and a 13/16 is used to remove the lug nuts.
2. Two 1/2-inch fasteners...
2. Two 1/2-inch fasteners hold on the antisway bar endlinks.
3. A 3/8-inch Allen wrench...
3. A 3/8-inch Allen wrench will remove the caliper. Remember tonot let it hang from the brake line.
4. A hammer and small flathead...
4. A hammer and small flathead will get the dust cover off. You can use pliers, but there is more of a chance of damaging the dustcover that way.
5. You'll need a pair of pliers...
5. You'll need a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and a set of channel locks to loosen the nut on the spindle before the rotor will come off.
6. We found three 1/2-inch...
6. We found three 1/2-inch and one 3/8-inch holding the backing plate on.
7. A pickle fork and some...
7. A pickle fork and some persuasion from the hammer will bust the ball joints loose. Make sure to have a jack under the A-arm and the nut still threaded on a few turns before attempting to break the ball joints loose.
8. The upper has a 7/8-inch...
8. The upper has a 7/8-inch nut, while the bottom has a 15/16-incher.
9. The front shocks and the...
9. The front shocks and the upper rear shocks are held on by a 1/2-inch nut.
10. The U-bolts have a 13/16-inch...
10. The U-bolts have a 13/16-inch nut.
11. The lower bolts on the...
11. The lower bolts on the rear shock measure 13/16 inch.
12a. The shocks fit in the...
12a. The shocks fit in the stock area. The lifted ones have a larger body, so you might have to tap the nutserts out of the way until it's all the way in.<12a & 12b)
12b.
13a. Install the rotor, bearing,...
13a. Install the rotor, bearing, and washer. Then tighten the nut until the rotor drags a little as you spin it with your hand. Now back the nut off until the first available notch in the castle nut lines up with the hole in the spindle. The lift necessitates a longer brake line that Pro Comp provides with the kit. The steel-braided line has all the proper ends and tie wraps needed for the install.(13a & 13b)
13b.