1. First things first, the...
1. First things first, the bed is removed and a measurement is taken from the ground to the top of the rear end.
3. After the beginning measurements...
3. After the beginning measurements are taken the gas tank, brakes, leaf springs (thrown in the trash), and everything else are unbolted.
5. Next, the truck is set...
5. Next, the truck is set up on jack stands and leveled.
6. The frame is measured and...
6. The frame is measured and marked where the center of the notch will be placed to allow for rear end clearance.
To give more valuable information we put together a basic way to measure notch placement. Bobby uses a 12x12x12 2x3-inch Sadistic Iron Werks notch for a clean look.
(Tire Height + rear end diameter) / 2 = top of the rear end
Next, using a long straightedge measure from the bottom of the frame to the frame height where the center of the rear end sits. With this info use the equation:
Top of the rear end - stock frame height = the bottom of the notch
So, to recap, let's plug numbers so it makes sense:
26 (tire height) + 4 (rear end diameter) = 30/2 = 15 (top of the rear end)
15 (top of the rear end) - 12 (stock frame height) = 3 (So the bottom of the notch needs to sit 3 inches taller.)
7. The notch is set up to...
7. The notch is set up to ensure it's level and the center is marked. Next, the outside is traced where the frame will need to be cut out.
9. Everything is cut out,...
9. Everything is cut out, leaving a pocket for the notch to sit in.
11. The excess of the notch...
11. The excess of the notch is marked and cut off. Then the notch is placed in the pocket, leveled, and tack-welded into place.
12. Everything is double checked...
12. Everything is double checked and the notch is welded in. After that, the center of the frame is cut out.
15. The rear end is centered...
15. The rear end is centered and marked. Then the pinion angle is set and the rear end is welded to the notch.