 1. Some trimming of the inner...  1. Some trimming of the inner fenderwell was first necessary to make room. |  2. More of the inner fenderwell...  2. More of the inner fenderwell will be trimmed later, but we didn't want to cut too much until the shock-tower height had been determined. |  3. & 4. Next, the area on...  3. & 4. Next, the area on the frame and the antisway bar was cleaned up, exposing bare steel ready to be cut and welded on. |
4. |  5. Moving to the chop saw,...  5. Moving to the chop saw, a section of 4-inch-diameter pipe with 3/16-inch wall was cut in half. Each half will be used to notch the framerail, allowing a shock to exist within the parameters of the framerails. |  6. Half of the cut pipe was...  6. Half of the cut pipe was laid against the S-10's framerail, and the outer edge was marked with a paint pen once the location of the notch was determined. |
 7. The marked area was then...  7. The marked area was then cut out using a plasma cutter. |  8. & 9. With the section of...  8. & 9. With the section of frame carved away, and the top and bottom of the framerails trimmed, there's now enough room to install the notch. | 
9. |
 10. The half-tube was spot-welded...  10. The half-tube was spot-welded into place to check the fit. |  11. The backside of the new...  11. The backside of the new notch was then welded into place, along with the top and upper left side. |  12. & 13. Notice the open...  12. & 13. Notice the open gap on the right side of the notch? GO EZ made quick work of adjusting the notch, using a few well-placed blows with a hammer to contour the notch to the opening in the frame. |
13. |  14. A shock was dummied in...  14. A shock was dummied in place with the lower shock tabs to determine the correct angle for the shock. This is the most important part of the install since the suspension must be cycled all the way through its range of motion to make sure the shock will not bind at either extreme. |  15. Next, the lower shock...  15. Next, the lower shock mount tabs were welded into place on the antisway bar. |
 16. With the notch and lower...  16. With the notch and lower shock tabs welded in, we can now work on the upper shock mount. After measuring, we determined that the shock tower needed to be 7-1/2 inches in height. |  17. Back at the chop saw,...  17. Back at the chop saw, a 7-1/2-inch length of 1/4-inch steel was cut to be used for the main part of the upper shock mount. |  18. Art from GO EZ then welded...  18. Art from GO EZ then welded on the shock tabs, which would serve to mount the upper part of the shock. |
 19. With the upper shock mount...  19. With the upper shock mount built, the best location for the tower was determined and it was tack-welded into place to keep it steady. |  20. To make the upper mount...  20. To make the upper mount as strong as possible, a gusset was added to the mount and tack-welded to both the frame and the upper mount. |  21. Once everything was double-checked,...  21. Once everything was double-checked, the upper mount and gusset were welded completely and permanently into position. |
 22. Once completed, the assembly...  22. Once completed, the assembly received a coat of flat black paint to keep things from rusting further down the road. |  23. With the shock installed...  23. With the shock installed on the new custom mount, there's no chance of the shock binding at any ride height. Likewise, there's very little stress on the lower shock loop, which means that this shock and assembly will function well for a long, long time. | |