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Dropping an I-Beam Ford Ranger - Crossed Up & Hammered: Part One

The Right Way To Drop A Ranger
By Mike Finnegan
Up And Hammered Ford Ranger
Up And Hammered Stock Ford Ranger
1. Here is the (pardon the... 
   
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Up And Hammered Stock Ford Ranger
1. Here is the (pardon the pun) lowly, stock Ford Ranger. It's sitting entirely too far off the groundand needs to get closer to Mother Earth.
Up And Hammered Ibeams
2. This comparison photo of... 
   
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Up And Hammered Ibeams
2. This comparison photo of the stock I-beams and the new ones from Chassis Tech show how the end of the beam will raise the spindles up a full 3 inches versus stock.
Up And Hammered Crossmember
3. The Alter Images transmission... 
   
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Up And Hammered Crossmember
3. The Alter Images transmission crossmember (rear of photo) will bolt to the bottom of the frame and to the transmission in the stock location, but it doesn't hang below the framerails.
Up And Hammered Radius Arm Mount
4. The new radius arm mount... 
   
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Up And Hammered Radius Arm Mount
4. The new radius arm mount crossmember from Alter Images works much like the transmission crossmember. It will work just like the stock piece, but without protruding below the framerails.
Up And Hammered Bottom Mounts
5. SD began by unbolting the... 
   
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Up And Hammered Bottom Mounts
5. SD began by unbolting the bottom mounts of the front shocks. Then the lower spring cups were unbolted from the front I-beams. This allowed the front suspension to be extended and the coil springs to be pulled out.
Up And Hammered Two Bolts
6. There are two bolts that... 
   
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Up And Hammered Two Bolts
6. There are two bolts that hold the front sway bar end links to the I-beams. One is unbolted from the front of the I-beams and the other will be unbolted when the I-beams are removed from the chassis.
Up And Hammered Steering Tie Rods
7. The steering tie rods were... 
   
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Up And Hammered Steering Tie Rods
7. The steering tie rods were the last items to be removed from the spindles. The spindles and rotors were then removed as a single piece and hung from the framerails using wire.
Up And Hammered Cotter Pins
8. Next, the cotter pins and... 
   
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Up And Hammered Cotter Pins
8. Next, the cotter pins and castle nuts are removed from the spindles and ball joints. The spindles were then removed from the I-beams by prying the sleeves out of the tops of the spindles.
Up And Hammered Second Bolt
9. Remember the second bolt... 
   
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Up And Hammered Second Bolt
9. Remember the second bolt that holds the sway bar end links in place? It's now time to remove them, thereby disassembling the I-beams from the radius arms.
Up And Hammered Framerails
10. The I-beams can now be... 
   
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Up And Hammered Framerails
10. The I-beams can now be unbolted from the framerails and removed from the truck. These will be replaced with the new dropped beams from Chassis Tech.
Up And Hammered Impact Wrench
11. With the I-beams out of... 
   
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Up And Hammered Impact Wrench
11. With the I-beams out of the way, the radius arms are unbolted from the crossmember using an impact wrench.
Up And Hammered Remove Radius Arms
12. Simone then removed both... 
   
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Up And Hammered Remove Radius Arms
12. Simone then removed both radius arms from the truck, setting them aside because they will be reused.
Up And Hammered Transmission
13. Moving to the rear of... 
   
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Up And Hammered Transmission
13. Moving to the rear of the truck, the rear of the transmission is unbolted from the offending crossmember. This crossmember runs directly underneath the framerails and is the first item to contact the ground on a lowered Ranger.
Up And Hammered Unbolt Crossmembers
14. The crossmember is then... 
   
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Up And Hammered Unbolt Crossmembers
14. The crossmember is then unbolted from the mounts on the outside of the framerails.
Up And Hammered Alter Images
15. The new Alter Images crossmember... 
   
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Up And Hammered Alter Images
15. The new Alter Images crossmember is lined up underneath the framerails and loosely bolted to the transmission. Once in place, the appropriate mounting holes are drilled into the framerails.
Up And Hammered Remount Transmission
16. The crossmember is then... 
   
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Up And Hammered Remount Transmission
16. The crossmember is then removed and remounted to the transmission, but this time with the ends of the crossmember sitting inside of the framerails. Grade 8 bolts are then used to fasten the new crossmember to the framerails.
Up And Hammered Mounting Points
17. The old crossmember's... 
   
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Up And Hammered Mounting Points
17. The old crossmember's mounting points aren't used anymore, so they are torched off of the framerails.
Up And Hammered Below Framerails
18. The radius arm crossmember... 
   
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Up And Hammered Below Framerails
18. The radius arm crossmember is the next one to be replaced. It too hangs below the framerails, so it is unbolted from the framerails and...
Up And Hammered Rivets
19. The rivets on the sides... 
   
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Up And Hammered Rivets
19. The rivets on the sides are removed with an air chisel.
Up And Hammered Scrap Pile
20. The crossmember is then... 
   
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Up And Hammered Scrap Pile
20. The crossmember is then removed and thrown into the scrap pile.
Up And Hammered Lower Firewall
21. In order for the new crossmember... 
   
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Up And Hammered Lower Firewall
21. In order for the new crossmember to fit correctly, a section of the lower firewall must be trimmed on each side of the truck.
Up And Hammered Grade 8 Bolt
22. Alter Images makes a bitchin'... 
   
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Up And Hammered Grade 8 Bolt
22. Alter Images makes a bitchin' replacement crossmember that bolts into the front mounting hole for the factory crossmember. The rear hole must be drilled through the framerails and then a Grade 8 bolt is used to secure the crossmember.
Up And Hammered Grind
23. Under normal circumstances,... 
   
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Up And Hammered Grind
23. Under normal circumstances, simply bolting in the crossmembers is sufficient. But the guys at Suspension Dimension are not normal fabricators, so they chose to grind the paint off the framerails, that way they could weld the crossmember in place.
Up And Hammered Side Plates
24. C-clamps are used to squeeze... 
   
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Up And Hammered Side Plates
24. C-clamps are used to squeeze the side plates to the framerails and the crossember is mig-welded to the frame. Well, the new crossmembers are in place, making the framerails the lowest point of this truck. Check back with us next month as we wrap up this article with the installation of the new I-beams and an axle flip kit.
Up And Hammered Tires

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