13.Yes, the cab had to come...
13.Yes, the cab had to come on and off a lot to double-check everything. It's a pain in the neck but worth it to ensure that the final fitment of everything comes out perfect.
14.TECH TIP In order to get...
In order to get it right the first time since we're building everything from scratch, we decided to bolt the cab down and get EXACT measurements for the body mounts. We started by measuring out the back of the cab. With it perfectly even on both sides we welded a bolt to the frame table running up through the cab mount holes. Once all four corners were perfect we tightened them all down. This process takes a couple people (thanks Sean) to ensure the cab doesn't move.
17.Next, it was crossmember...
17.Next, it was crossmember time. We cut three crossmembers to length then measured and drilled out our 2-inch holes.
18.Tubing was cut and TIG-welded...
18.Tubing was cut and TIG-welded flush in the holes that we wanted to fill. The other holes will be used later for some mounting points.
20.In order to mix our clean...
20.In order to mix our clean street-rod look with the pre-runner fab we were after, we called in some reinforcements. We measured and drew up our suspension link system, and Joel from Mindliss Metalfab laser-cut our parts to spec.
23.Bobby cut and cleaned the...
23.Bobby cut and cleaned the four-link ends because when TIG welding it is VERY important that everything is super clean to ensure the best possible weld. He then welded the ends in place using the link-bar jig he built to ensure both sides came out the exact same.