Have you been itching to learn something new? Well, Eastwood and Steve Kafka assembled this easy-to-follow teaching system to help the beginner or seasoned striper learn to use his innovative Kafka Striping Brush.
Put aside a little time and a small work area, pop in this DVD, and in no time flat you will be on your way to laying down some lines. You won't be perfect right away, but this system will get you started in the right direction. With a lot of practice and some pointers from the pros, you'll be well on your way to adding one more trade to your personal toolbox of customization skills. So follow along as we show you some of the basics-and just keep practicing! For more information, contact the company listed in the source box.
With a lot of practice and hard work, you too can start laying down some killer designs of your own!
1. Here's a look at the Kafka...
1. Here's a look at the Kafka DVD kit, along with some extra 1Shot paint to practice with.
2. There are two types of...
2. There are two types of brushes available from the Steve Kafka line: long liners (right) and scrollers. The long liner is built to pull those traditional straight lines and symmetrical designs that are all over this issue. The Signature Series scrollers are made to do loopy lines and are perfect for laying down flames. Fun fact: Natural hair-type brushes (usually made from blue squirrel hair) hold a tremendous amount of paint because they have microscopic scales along the shaft of the hair.
3. It's best to use oil-based,...
3. It's best to use oil-based, high-gloss enamels for interior or exterior use on metal, glass, or wood. The flow characteristics assure the virtual absence of brush marks and provide a clean, sharp edge. It will dry to the touch in 2-5 hours and can be cleaned up with a good body solvent. The low temp reducer is ideal for lightly thinning the paint for the perfect striping consistency without making it dry too fast.
4. The kit includes two packets...
4. The kit includes two packets of goodies. One has photocopies of every step needed to slowly train your hand for the perfect lines. The other pack is filled with clear sheets so you can trace the lines over and over without damaging the photo copies. They are easy to clean and also allow you to lift them up and check the coverage of your paint. The clipboard gives you a nice solid place to hone your skills and makes it very portable.
5. Pinstriping and lettering...
5. Pinstriping and lettering enamel strainers are large enough to allow flow and small enough to filter those nerve wracking globs that are so time-consuming to remove. They come in a re-usable button-tie black envelope.
6. Welcome to My World, Vol....
6. Welcome to My World, Vol. 1 DVD shows some of the capabilities of Steve's signature series brushes and how he uses them to stripe panel art. This is not meant to be an instructional video alone but a demonstration as well. The brush oil developed by Steve is made from the finest ingredients available and is specially scented with patchouli. It will keep and preserve your brushes perfectly, and it smells great to boot.
7. First thing we needed to...
7. First thing we needed to do was get the paint thinned out and on the brush. Pour some thinner into a Dixie cup and a few globs of paint onto the high-dollar mixing pallet. Dipping the brush in the thinner and then moving it to the paint will allow you to progressively thin the paint. Don't go crazy, just pull the brush through it, but not in a back-and-forth motion. This will prevent you from damaging the hairs on the brush. To pallet the brush is a very important step to ensure the hairs on the brush are in line to provide a nice consistent pull.
8. With your fingers, remove...
8. With your fingers, remove the excess material. You want the hairs of the brush to be loaded completely with color but not so much that it won't stay sharp when your fingers come off the end
9. Here's how to properly...
9. Here's how to properly hold the brush as demonstrated by Steve Deman. Note how he uses three fingers to base his hand. This is the best way to keep the lines consistent. Keeping the brush at the same distance from the panel is also a must (just like welding).
10. The higher the brush is...
10. The higher the brush is away, the thinner the line it will produce and so forth. So if you're inconsistent your line will get fat and thin. Once you get the brush set in your hand, basically lock all joints and then use a piece of tape as a guide to keep straight.
11. After you get comfortable...
11. After you get comfortable with straight lines, it's time to tackle curves. To produce a good curved line you have to dedicate one of your base fingers as the pivot. Find the comfortable spot for your pivot finger and start. As the line curves you will need to swing out your elbow and maybe even take a step and move your whole body to make it all the way around. It gets complicated because you will also have to rotate the brush in hand as you sweep your curves. Deman made it look easy and put down a near perfect half circle compared to our lame line next to it.
12. For symmetrical striping,...
12. For symmetrical striping, the center lines are very important. A penciled center line gives you what you need to mirror the symmetry on each side.