Body Work Tools & Applications - Body Work Done Right

25. Once the filler has dried, it's time to block it and see how you did with your spreading skills. With 80-grit on the block, make sure to sand in an alternating X pattern. This will keep you from making ridges. If the filler balls up or instantly clogs the paper, then it's not dry enough.

27. As you can see, our problems are still here, so we will have to go back and work the area some more. Don't try and hammer out the low spots, because the filler will take care of those.

28. The high spots, however, will need to be tapped down. Those are the basics that will be repeated until you can pull the block over the area and it all can sand uniformly.

29. When it comes to primers, there are different types depending on what you're trying to cover. In simple terms, a metal-etching primer is used to cover over areas that are bare metal only and the rest of the body work should be done over that. A high-fill Polyprimer is used to cover over bodywork and old paint. This is the primer you will use to do the final block sanding. A primer sealer is used to seal up all of the primers and bodywork underneath and create a barrier so moisture will not soak into the very absorbent poly primer or plastic body filler. If you are going to leave your ride in primer for a while, then you definitely want to use a sealer as your last coat. And yes, it comes in black for that suede look.

30. Every primer has a different mix ratio for its catalyst, so read the label. You'll need a few mixing cups to measure it correctly, but the rule of thumb is: 8oz. of primer to a quarter size squirt of catalyst.

31. Pour the mixture into the gun and spray with 50-percent overlapping strokes. To learn how to set the gun, check out our "Spray Gun Basics" story, on page 102.

32. Once your primer is dry, dust it with an opposing color for a guide coat. This will help you to see if there are any leftover high or low spots in your panel while you block-sand it.

33. The key is to sand off the guide coat with 220-grit paper in the same alternating X pattern without sanding through the primer.

34. If you're feeling confident in your skills, you can use a pneumatic sander for your final block. Be careful because it's very easy to sand too much with one of these.

35. If you have to recoat the Polyprimer it is a good idea to scuff the area with a Scotch-Brite pad to give it a better surface to bite.

36. After you scuff the area, make sure to use a tack rag to remove any dust or debris; also using air at the same time will help.

37. The last step is to spray a sealer over your work again in 50-percent overlapping passes.

39. Pictures 37,38, and 39
Not every surface of a truck is completely flat, and thanks to companies like Hutchinson, there are special purpose blocks that will fit in the contours for great results. They even make a block specifically designed for the bed area so you can smooth out along the ribs.