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LED Tail Lights On A Chevy Blazer - Do-It-Yourself Custom TailsFlush-Mounted LED Install From the May, 2005 issue of Mini Truckin' By Doug Millard Photography by Courtesy of SIC
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Customization is the name of the game when it comes to modifying your mini-truck and making it stand out at the local cruise or at a big time show. Basically, a good rule of thumb is "Stock sucks." So, anything stock just won't do on your custom ride, including the taillights. Depending on where you live, you might want to take into account the DOT laws that apply to certain modifications, including messing with the factory lighting (if your anything like most mini-truckers, you probably don't worry too much about Johnny Law) before shaving your taillights and installing a set of LEDs. Custom Classic in Howe, Texas, offers LEDs in many lengths and color combinations. For this install, we chose a set of 8-1/2-inchers that have white reverse lights built in. The crew at Street Issue Customs in Poulsbo, Washington, decided to use a first-generation Blazer as the guinea pig for the LED install. After the basic measuring, cutting, and wiring are taken care of, the hardest part was the bodywork involved in smoothing over the LEDs to give them that true "flush-mounted" appearance. Follow along with the crew at Street Issue Customs as it shows just how easy this do-it-yourself LED install really is.  1. Here's a look at the Custom...  1. Here's a look at the Custom Classic Flush-Mount LED Kits. Each kit comes complete with an acrylic lens, a diffuser lens, the built LED unit (built as long as 42 inches), and all necessary wiring for a fully functional taillight system. Materials not included for the install are two-part-clear marine-grade epoxy, clear silicone, four small flathead machine screws, lock washers, and nuts.  2. First off, decide on placement....  2. First off, decide on placement. We opted to put this set in the tailgate of a first-generation Chevy Blazer. Be sure that wherever you put them, you have ample room to access the light assembly from behind.  3. We measured in from the...  3. We measured in from the outside of the tailgate and marked our end point, then did the same from the top.  4. Next, mark where you'll...  4. Next, mark where you'll make your cut. The visible portion of the lens is 1/2 inch, so a piece of 1/2-inch masking tape cut to length works well and gives you a good idea of what the final product will look like.  5. With a cutoff wheel, slowly...  5. With a cutoff wheel, slowly cut out the marked portion of the tailgate. Be careful and take your time with this, as you don't want to have to fix any mistakes later on.  6. Once the hole has been...  6. Once the hole has been cut and you've test-fit the lens, you'll need to get the rear of the panel ready for installation of the bucket. First, prep the area for welding. If it's a tight space, such as in the Blazer, a rotary tool and flapper wheel work great for removing paint and undercoating. A section of the tailgate may also need to be cut out for better access to the LED mounting area.  7. Using the LED bucket as...  7. Using the LED bucket as a template, set the position of your light and mark the mounting spots for your screws. The screws will serve to mount the LED buckets in place, so in the event that a light does go out, you can remove the bucket and replace it.  8. Place the flathead screws...  8. Place the flathead screws on the marked spots and tack-weld them to the tailgate, making sure not to overdo it and warp anything.  9. After test-fitting the...  9. After test-fitting the bucket, it was time to set in the lens assembly. First, get out your two-part epoxy and mix it per the manufacturer's specifications.  10. Use the supplied applicator...  10. Use the supplied applicator to spread the epoxy on the back of the acrylic lens and adhere it to the smooth side of the diffuser lens.  11. Next, using a generous...  11. Next, using a generous amount of epoxy, spread it on the machined edge of the acrylic lens and body panel and set the lens in the cut-out. It's OK if you make a bit of a mess. The epoxy will dry crystal-clear and can be sanded off in the event that any gets on the front of the lens. You'll need to wait for the epoxy to fully cure before continuing.  12. Once the epoxy is fully...  12. Once the epoxy is fully cured and the lens is permanently attached to your truck, it's time to smooth it out. The best method for this is to use either an 80-grit wheel or a D/A sander and take the protruding portion of the lens down, nearly flush with the exterior panel. You don't want to bring it all the way down, as we still have some sanding to do.  13. Take a light coat of body...  13. Take a light coat of body filler and smooth the entire area. Bodywork the lens area down until the panel is completely smooth. Finish with some glazing compound to fill any minor imperfections in the filler, and smooth again. When you're done, the lens should be fully visible and there is no notable transition between the lens and the panel.  14. Prep the area by masking...  14. Prep the area by masking the visible portion of the lens, then spray it down with your favorite coat of primer.  15. With the lens install...  15. With the lens install complete, we moved back to the inside of the tailgate and worked on the wiring. While every vehicle will be different, this should give you a good idea of what to look for. On our Blazer, the wiring for the taillights was pulled back through the body and into the cargo area so we could work with it. We used a shop manual to get the color codes for each wire and a test light to double-check.  16. The hot side of the tail/brake...  16. The hot side of the tail/brake portion of the LED was crimped to the provided resistor pigtail and wired into the stock tail and brake lines. The pigtail takes the place of traditional TAC boxes, serving to send different voltages to the LEDs for brake and taillight capabilities. The turn-signal portion of the LED was run to the stock turn 12-volt line, and the whole unit was grounded.  17. After the final wiring...  17. After the final wiring and testing, you can mount your LED unit. Slip it over the mounting studs and tighten down the nuts and lock washers. Using an all-weather clear silicone, run a bead around the entire LED bucket. This will ensure that no moisture gets into your new lights.  18. There you have it. In...  18. There you have it. In an afternoon's time, you can easily install some sweet new tails. Of course, you'll need to take the rest of the day to shave the stock tails, so get to work.
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