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Suicide Doors Install on a 1993 Toyota Pickup - Suicidal TendenciesThe Sickest Door Mod - Made Simple From the February, 2005 issue of Mini Truckin' By Mike Alexander Photography by Mike Alexander
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Jason Thorbecke is now a household name for mini-truckers nationwide. It wasn't always that way, though. Before Jason offered all kinds of quality parts at affordable prices through Suicidedoors.com, he worked on mini-trucks day in and day out at his little shop, Thorbecke Fabrication, where he began his niche baggin' and suiciding minis in Indiana. Well, Jason has come a long way and now sells an array of parts, including the Suicide Hinge Kit we decided to put to work on our little 'Yota project, "Dragged Daily." When it comes to modifications on this little mini, we won't trust the work to just any shop. We teamed up with Bobby at Sadistic Iron Werks to swing the driver-side door in reverse. Many people actually fear suicide doors because of all the horror stories they hear about installs going awry. Sagging doors that won't shut properly, improper seals, along with many more reasons, are why some avoid this dope body modification that would set their mini apart. The trick to any heavy modification is the right part teamed with the knowledge to make the part operate properly. The Suicidedoors.com hinge kit is fully adjustable, and with an experienced fabricator, the install can be done in a single weekend. Bobby showed us what it takes to properly swing our doors rearward and what an overall impact it adds to the style of any mini-truck. For more information, contact the companies listed in the source box.  1. Here's a look at the complete...  1. Here's a look at the complete Suicide Hinge Kit from Suicidedoors.com.  2. To give us some room to...  2. To give us some room to work inside the cab, Bobby began by removing the seat.  3. The seatbelt was then removed....  3. The seatbelt was then removed. Don't junk it, though, just in case you want to reinstall it to avoid those damn pesky tickets.  4. To gain access to the backside...  4. To gain access to the backside of the doorjamb, Bobby cut away the area with a cutoff wheel.  5. At www.suicidedoors.com,...  5. At www.suicidedoors.com, there are some good step-by-step how-tos for a suicide-door install. We did things a little differently, but both methods are fine. If you're less experienced and this is your first time trying any kind of heavy body mod, then definitely refer to the Web site how-tos, which cater to the first-time installer. We installed one hinge pocket at a time. First, we positioned the hinge where we wanted it, ensuring that it was level.  6. After marking the area...  6. After marking the area in the doorjamb for the lower hinge, the section was cut out.  7. Assuring that the hinge...  7. Assuring that the hinge stays level, it was measured and tack-welded into place.  8. The hinges need to be placed...  8. The hinges need to be placed as far apart as possible for maximum strength. Therefore, the top hinge was placed, measured, and cut out.  9. It's extremely critical...  9. It's extremely critical for proper operation of the doors that the hinges line up perfectly with each other and remain level throughout their operation. We quadruple-checked the alignment of both hinges before welding.  10. With a rod in place to...  10. With a rod in place to line up the hinges, the top hinge was spot-welded, checked again for alignment, then fully welded into place.  11. With both hinges secured,...  11. With both hinges secured, the outside edge was ground smooth.  12. We waited to remove the...  12. We waited to remove the door so we could line the hinges up to the inside of the door with it still attached. This ensured accuracy for the attachment placement.  13. After the door was marked,...  13. After the door was marked, it could be unbolted for the remainder of the modifications.  14. The marked areas of the...  14. The marked areas of the doorskin were cut away for the hinge mount to sit.  15. We also wanted to use...  15. We also wanted to use the stock latch, so the square around the latch was cut off to be relocated.  16. The door was clamped shut,...  16. The door was clamped shut, with the hinge mount bolted on and lined up in the doorskin.  17. The hinge mount was tacked...  17. The hinge mount was tacked into place, and the hinges were bolted up to test the alignment. The door was opened and closed to check for clearance, then aligned one more time before everything was completely welded in.  18. The hinge mounts were...  18. The hinge mounts were then fully welded into place.  19. After both hinge mounts...  19. After both hinge mounts were welded, the excess was ground flush with the doorskin.  20. The door was bolted back...  20. The door was bolted back into place and checked for flex so all the weak areas could be addressed and strengthened.  21. The surrounding areas...  21. The surrounding areas of all the holes were ground down so the reinforcements could be welded in.  22. Steel was plated to the...  22. Steel was plated to the hinge mounts, as well as all areas where the door showed signs of flex.  23. A piece of sheetmetal...  23. A piece of sheetmetal was measured and cut out to fill the hole left in the doorskin, where the square sheet of latch housing was removed.  24. The piece was tack-welded...  24. The piece was tack-welded and shaped into form.  25. Once the hole was filled...  25. Once the hole was filled and the metal was formed, the sheetmetal was welded to the skin.  26. Since the latch was being...  26. Since the latch was being relocated to the front of the door, an area was measured and cut where the latch would reside.  27. The latch skin was then...  27. The latch skin was then tack-welded, shaped, and fully welded into place.  28. After the skin was welded...  28. After the skin was welded in, the surrounding area was cleaned up, thanks to our good buddy, the grinder.  29. The rest of the hole was...  29. The rest of the hole was plated, then cleaned up to get ready for some mud.  30. The front hinge was cut...  30. The front hinge was cut off, since we'd no longer have use for it.  31. The stock latch was bolted...  31. The stock latch was bolted into its new location at the front of the door.  32. The door popper was obviously...  32. The door popper was obviously moved to the front of the door as well. New holes were drilled, and the popper was reinstalled.  33. Moving back to the doorjamb,...  33. Moving back to the doorjamb, sheetmetal was marked and cut to plate the surrounding holes.  34. After each piece was formed,...  34. After each piece was formed, it was welded and ground smooth.  35. All the stock hinge-mounting...  35. All the stock hinge-mounting holes and excess holes were filled and ground to smooth out the overall appearance of the install.  36-37. Body filler was used...  36-37. Body filler was used to smooth over the doorjambs and all the areas tampered with on the doorskin.  38. After the mud dried, each...  38. After the mud dried, each area was taped off and primered until the final prep for paint could be taken care of.  39. The final step was to...  39. The final step was to relocate the stock door striker, which the stock latch will clamp to.  40. The door was then bolted...  40. The door was then bolted in and ready to be swung suicide-style.  41. There you have it. Suicide...  41. There you have it. Suicide doors don't have to be as scary as they're made out to be, and you can be pimpin' them in a matter of days. Sources
Sadistic Iron Werks
Dept. MT
15058 Birch St.
Hesperia, CA 92345
(760) 403-5159
www.sadisticiron.com
Suicidedoors.com
Dept. MT
P.O. Box 167
Francisco, IN 47649
(812) 782-3581
www.suicidedoors.com
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