 22. Steel was plated to the...  22. Steel was plated to the hinge mounts, as well as all areas where the door showed signs of flex. |  23. A piece of sheetmetal...  23. A piece of sheetmetal was measured and cut out to fill the hole left in the doorskin, where the square sheet of latch housing was removed. |  24. The piece was tack-welded...  24. The piece was tack-welded and shaped into form. |
 25. Once the hole was filled...  25. Once the hole was filled and the metal was formed, the sheetmetal was welded to the skin. |  26. Since the latch was being...  26. Since the latch was being relocated to the front of the door, an area was measured and cut where the latch would reside. |  27. The latch skin was then...  27. The latch skin was then tack-welded, shaped, and fully welded into place. |
 28. After the skin was welded...  28. After the skin was welded in, the surrounding area was cleaned up, thanks to our good buddy, the grinder. |  29. The rest of the hole was...  29. The rest of the hole was plated, then cleaned up to get ready for some mud. |  30. The front hinge was cut...  30. The front hinge was cut off, since we'd no longer have use for it. |
 31. The stock latch was bolted...  31. The stock latch was bolted into its new location at the front of the door. |  32. The door popper was obviously...  32. The door popper was obviously moved to the front of the door as well. New holes were drilled, and the popper was reinstalled. |  33. Moving back to the doorjamb,...  33. Moving back to the doorjamb, sheetmetal was marked and cut to plate the surrounding holes. |
 34. After each piece was formed,...  34. After each piece was formed, it was welded and ground smooth. |  35. All the stock hinge-mounting...  35. All the stock hinge-mounting holes and excess holes were filled and ground to smooth out the overall appearance of the install. |  36-37. Body filler was used...  36-37. Body filler was used to smooth over the doorjambs and all the areas tampered with on the doorskin. |
 |  38. After the mud dried, each...  38. After the mud dried, each area was taped off and primered until the final prep for paint could be taken care of. |  39. The final step was to...  39. The final step was to relocate the stock door striker, which the stock latch will clamp to. |
 40. The door was then bolted...  40. The door was then bolted in and ready to be swung suicide-style. |  41. There you have it. Suicide...  41. There you have it. Suicide doors don't have to be as scary as they're made out to be, and you can be pimpin' them in a matter of days. | |
Sources
Sadistic Iron Werks
Dept. MT
15058 Birch St.
Hesperia, CA 92345
(760) 403-5159
www.sadisticiron.com
Suicidedoors.com
Dept. MT
P.O. Box 167
Francisco, IN 47649
(812) 782-3581
www.suicidedoors.com