Whenever you embark on a full-tilt project truck, it's best to spend as little money as possible on the truck itself, saving more cash for the modifications. If your goal is to build the meanest S-10 to ever cruise your hometown, then you might as well start by purchasing the less desirable, first year truck of the current body style. You're going to change everything anyway, right? Well, then go for the cheap truck ('94-'97 models) and fool everyone into thinking it's an '00 or later model year mini by swapping the old front end for a new one. JBM Sport Truck Accessories can put the parts in your hot little hands that will make this feat of trickery as easy as turning a few wrenches and rewiring the front lighting assemblies. How easy is this mod? Well, we watched Maynard's Custom Cars and Trucks swap the front end on its beat-down '97 S-10 shop truck in less than two hours. By the time we finished lunch, it had the new front end on the truck and were off to the local air conditioning refill station to have the A/C recharged. The '98-and-newer front end from JBM is a bolt-on affair that completely updates the look of older S-10s. Before we finished, we slapped on a billet grille and a billet Bow Tie emblem we got from The Billet Superstore. If you'd like to change your S-10 for the better, call the companies listed in the source box for additional information on this cool mod.
 1.The shop truck had seen...  1.The shop truck had seen better days, as evidenced by the smashed front bumper and valance. |  2.There aren't too many parts...  2.There aren't too many parts needed to perform the swap. All of the hardware from the old front end will be reused, so we just had to procure the new core support, bumper, valance, and headlights. |  3.Since the core support and...  3.Since the core support and radiator must be removed, the engine coolant was drained into a pan. |
 4.The radiator shroud is attached...  4.The radiator shroud is attached to the core support with a number of plastic clips. To remove them, the center pin is pried upward and then the clips come right out. |  5.Once the clips are gone,...  5.Once the clips are gone, the shroud can be removed, providing access to the radiator and transmission cooler. |  6.The 7mm bolts holding the...  6.The 7mm bolts holding the grille shell to the core support were removed. |
 7.With the grille loose, the...  7.With the grille loose, the sockets for the corner lights were unplugged. The old grille shell was then thrown outside for Chunk the "Shop Dog" to play with. |  8.To gain access to the radiator,...  8.To gain access to the radiator, the airbox had to be removed. In this photo, the intake tube hose clamps have already been removed. |  9.The filter and top of the...  9.The filter and top of the box has been removed and then the box is unbolted from the inner fender |
 10.The battery cables are...  10.The battery cables are disconnected and the battery is set aside. This photo shows the bolts that hold the battery tray to the core support. These must be removed as well. |  11.The upper and lower radiator...  11.The upper and lower radiator hoses are removed, and then the radiator is pulled out of the engine compartment. |  12.The transmission cooler...  12.The transmission cooler lines and air-conditioning condenser lines are both disconnected. After the truck is reassembled, the A/C will need to be recharged because the Freon will have escaped. |
 13.The tranny cooler is finally...  13.The tranny cooler is finally removed from the core support. Extra care must be taken so the cooling fins are not damaged during removal. These delicate fins are easily smashed by rubbing the cooler against the core support. |  14.The last item to be removed...  14.The last item to be removed from the engine compartment is the windshield washer fluid reservoir. The front fenders must be unbolted from the core support and the reservoir is definitely in the way. |  15.The front fenders are unbolted...  15.The front fenders are unbolted next, but they are not completely removed. By unbolting the forward most bolts, the fender is loosened enough to allow the core support to be slid out. |